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This section of our website is dedicated to the Modification and Repair of all Goodyear Welted Footwear by The Shoe Healer.
Pictured below is a pair of Tricker's Bourton in the colour Acorn Antique. This shoe has a new Commando Sole fitted by Shoehealer.
Step by step pictures were taken and can be seen below.
This type of work is done daily by The Shoe Healer, and with over 25 years experience in shoe care and repair, the quality and finish is always to the highest standards possible.
Should you require any information on shoe repairs or modifications, please contact Richard at The Shoe Healer on 01302 329965 or by email at
The machinery used to repair and refurbish all kinds of footwear
David, one of our technicians, who carried out most of the work shown here
Ready for the off!
Beginning of the removal of the heel block
The next stage is to scour the leather outsole and through the stitching which holds the sole in place
Showing how stitching is scoured through
The outer sole is then peeled off ...
... to reveal the leather mid-sole found in all Tricker's Country Collection Shoes and Boots
The remaining stitching is removed
Two pieces of thread are used to attach a sole to a welt - approx 3.12 meters of top thread - and the same length of bottom thread - is used on each sole
The nails which held the heel block are removed and the entire bottom of the sole is cleaned
New mid-sole, commando sole and leather heel stack scoured and ready for fitting
Ready for the next stage
Contact adhesive is applied to all surfaces ...
... and left until nearly cured before fitting
Attaching the Sole to the Shoe needs very careful attention to ensure the sole is correctly positioned
Equally important is the need to keep the original 'Toe Spring' of the shoe same as it was originally
The Sole is 'kneaded' by hand first ...
... then is pressed using a mechanical press on both the Sole and the Heel
The edges of the new sole are 'Crimped' using special Lasting Pliers to ensure the Welt is sealed to the Sole Edge
With the new Commando Sole Pressed and secure in place, the excess is removed using a special 'Drag Knife'
The Sole edge is then trimmed to within 1mm of the Welt ...
... to make ready for stitching
Antony, Director of and senior repairer at The Shoe Healer is seen stitching the soles on using one of our Outsole Sewing Machines
Closeup of the process
This particular model is a Goodyear Outsole Sewing Machine
Most Country Shoes and Boots have a 'Tennis Welt'. This is where the Welt is sewn onto the shoe all the way around including the Heel.
You see the stitching is complete, but before this was done, the Heel was used as a template to Mark and Scour the Sole Unit where the Heel Block sits. This is done to effect better adhesion of the Heel
The Leather Lifts have been attached to the Heel, Contact Adhesive applied and the entire Heel Blocks positioned and pressed using our Mechanical Press
A special tool is used to nail the Heel Block through the Insole of the shoe
Ring Shank Nails are used as they have much better grip than Smooth Shank Nails
Under the Back Sock in every Tricker's Shoe is written the UK size and the Last Number that the shoe was made on. This particular model was made on Tricker's 4444 Last, and is a UK size 9 1/2
The Job is nearing completion. The final picture in this set shows the Trimming of the Heel Block
The Sole Edge Trimming is carefully finished all the way around the shoe. It is very important to take as little Welt Edge off as possible when trimming. The more Welt is taken off, the fewer repairs can be done in future on the original Welt. New Welts can be fitted to older shoes but this is sewn on by hand, is time consuming and expensive
A Stain is applied to the Welt and Sole Edge before Waxes are used to obtain a Smooth and high class finish
The Job is done. We find in our work that Ladies and Gentleman with a preference for Fine English Hand Made Shoes, often also have a genuine interest in the Materials and Construction Methods used
As Shoe repairers, we have an insight into the make up of all different types of shoes and their construction. It is this insight that may give staff at The Shoe Healer a distinct and reliable advantage over other retail outlets
Our passion for our work and our customer service is what drives us forward. We sincerely hope you have enjoyed our feature and welcome any questions you may have. It is possible to change entire Sole Units on all Goodyear Welted Shoes and Boots, and often it is possible to exchange soles for different types ...
For example, a shoe originally fitted with a Commando Sole, may be changed for a Dainite Sole or a Leather Sole. This is just one example of many available options.